India’s most romantic city - Udaipur

A gorgeous rising sun from behind the mighty, lush green mountains, the calming ripples on the lake, a cool breeze and a slight drizzle making the green even greener, just the way you’d like it. This would be a very regular beginning for almost any travel story. The reason I chose to sacrifice a more creative opening to this tale is because these lush green mountains, the cool breeze, the lakes and the slight drizzle happen to be in the middle of desert country Rajasthan. Udaipur is very different from the scorching heat and the picture of the barren desert pictures that one usually visualizes at the mention of the state of Rajasthan.

 

Udaipur was founded in 1559 by Maharana Udai Singh II as the final capital of the erstwhile Mewar kingdom. Legend has it that the Maharana  came upon a hermit while hunting in the foothills of the Aravalli Range. The hermit blessed the king and asked him to build a palace on the spot, assuring him that it would be well protected. Udai Singh II consequently established a residence on the site. In 1568 the Mughal emperor Akbar captured the fort of Chittor, and Udai Singh moved his capital to the site of his residence, which became the city of Udaipur.

It truly is a mix of a modern city with one that is still deep rooted in its past glory, tradition and culture. There is something regal about it from the time you set foot on its soil. From a vantage point – the city flanked by the massive Fatehsagar Lake and the Pichola Lake, surrounded by magnificent domed structures spread across evenly, the serene looking Lake Palace and the grand City Palace forms an exceptionally breathtaking image. Most of these domed structures are former royal abodes that have now been converted into boutique Palace Hotels.

You can spend your time in this exotic paradise shopping for widely popular Rajasthani handicrafts; Silver and Kundan jewellery, colorful zari embroidered clothes, hand bags and accessories, and Meenakari Jewellery. Meenakari is the art of colouring or decorating a metal surface by attaching, or fusing, pieces of different mineral substances over it. The art of decorating metal with enameling or Meenakari was alien to India and was introduced by the Mughals. In the past, enameling was only done on gold, but presently it is also done on other metals like silver and copper.


You can indulge yourself in the local cuisine. The Dal bati churma (Baked Wheat Dumplings served with Mixed Lentils), dipped in ghee, the Laal Maas (spicy mutton curry)for the non vegetarians , the Gatte ki sabzi  (gram flour based steamed dumplings simmered in buttermilk laden tangy gravy )and Kadhi  (spiced yogurt curry)with Mirchi ke pakode (fried dumpling)are a few things that should be on your  ‘must sample’ list! Some of the local dhabas on the way from Udaipur to Chittorgarh have the most delicious meals to offer. These are usually frequented by locals. Also for a romantic dining experience you must vist a restaurant called Ambrai , on the banks of lake Pichola. The restaurant is a part of a boutique hotel called Amet Haveli and offers a candle lit dinner along with a panoramic view of Jagdish Temple, Gangaur Ghat, City Palace, Lake Palace, Jag Mandir and Sajjangarh Fort. You can also try a contemporary looking restaurant called Udaipuri which has interesting sculptures made out of spoons, forks and various other strange utensils but serves delicious food.

Like they say, Rajasthan is all about culture, tradition and fanfare. The city of Udaipur teases all your senses at once. There is a cultural treat organized every evening at 7 at Bagore ki Haveli. This gracious 18th-century haveli/museum on the water’s edge near Gangaur Ghat provides an atmospheric setting for the display of various traditional art forms like folk dances, music and puppetry.

Getting a local guide to take you around the City Palace is a very good idea, but you must also visit the sound and light show held on the premises in both English and Hindi. There is no better way to hear the tales of the brave warriors and the beautiful queens who ruled this land and fought for honour, pride, freedom and sovereignty The sound of the powerful voice of Arvind Singhji Mewar who tells the story of the Rajputs and their land and the inter-play of lights on the palace walls is a must see.

 Jag Mandir, an island palace in Lake Pichola, which was constructed by Maharana Karan Singh as a hideout for Prince Khurram, the estranged son of Emperor Jehangir and the implacable foe of the Maharana, is worth a visit. There are boats at regular interval to take you there.


The Monsoon Palace overlooks Lake Pichola and is one of the most beautiful spots in Udaipur. It is also known Sajjangarh Palace, named after Maharana Sajjan Singh of the Mewar Dynasty, who built it in 1884. It offers a panoramic view of the city’s lakes, palaces and the surrounding countryside. The winding roads uphill are lovely to drive on. Although It was built to watch the monsoon clouds, you must catch the breathtaking sunset from there.

 Not too far away from Udaipur are excursions like Ranakpur (An intricately carved, renowned Jain temple at Ranakpur is dedicated to Adinatha), Chittaurgarh fort (acknowledged as the largest fort of India) and Kumbhalgarh (the second most important fort of the Mewar Rulers of Rajasthan). These stunning monuments are certainly worth paying a detailed visit to.

Udaipur has many hotels, with almost every hotel chain worth its salt having a property here. The popular ones are the Heritage hotels which are old palaces and havelis converted into luxurious five star hotels. There are a few interesting home-stays as well. If you like living with local families, who open their homes and hearts to travelers, you must check out Pahuna Haveli and Deora Homestays.

 

My personal favourite in Udaipur is a Heritage Renaissance Resort named Fatehgarh. Heritage Renaissance is a term used to describe the laborious transplanting of a heritage structure, stone by stone, pillar by pillar, from a place not very far away to a new context. It was an old, dilapidated palace from Madhya Pradesh which has been recreated here and re-built using indigenous material which is most suited for the region, such as locally available stone, marble, wood and fabrics.

Another interesting facet of this place is the strong use of conceptual architecture. The construction of the building is based on vaastu principles which is a vedic architectural style for balance and harmony of nature’s forces, which has an interplay of the male and female aspects and is found more obviously in the spaces referred to as the Mardana Mahal (bold and exhibitionist – traditionally, the palace of the gentry) and the Zenana Mahal (intimate and delicate – traditionally, the palace of ladies). The harmonious intermingling of the yin and yang energies gives the interplay a whole new Heritage Hotel dimension.

 Accommodation here is in airy, oversized, comfortable rooms, with great views of the surroundings hills and the city of Udaipur. The people are warm and friendly. The infinity pool, the never ending marble corridors and arches and the jalli jharokas, are all instrumental in transporting you to a quiet, peaceful and serene space within yourself, much unlike the experience of the hustle bustle of a hotel. You can rent a horse and ride away into the hills or stop by the nearby villages. You can spoil yourself by renting out a vintage car ride to the surrounding areas as well. You can pamper yourself in the spa, which is very, very good here.

You must visit Udaipur in the rains. It is simply stunning! The weather is more than welcoming, and it is also considered ‘off season’ here with the rates at hotels being slashed heavily during this period. The calm and quiet you can enjoy here in this season is also an advantage as compared to winter which is full of tourists. You will not be able to leave Udaipur without being completely taken in by the charm of the traditions here- the tika when you enter a hotel, the bright clothes that people wear, the tales and legends of the proud Rajputs, the innocence and politeness of the people, and simply the joie de vivre.

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