Sam and Bikaner, Rajasthan
Dancing to the dunes of Sam
The golden sand dunes at Sam desert, Jailsalmer
I had never thought that a barren desert with endless sand dunes and no signs of civilisation could be so breathtakingly beautiful. After the pace of a city like Mumbai, the engaging and picturesque dunes of Sam seem to exist in a different time. Most tourists here are day visitors but an overnight stay at this extraordinary site is mandatory if you really want to experience a camel ride into the setting sun, the clear skies with a thousand sparkling stars and lose yourself to the soul stirring ballads about the legendary lovers Moomal and Mahendra performed with a narh (a traditional musical instrument) around a campfire.
I for one, fulfilled all my Bollywood style fantasies of dancing on the dunes and taking weird photographs pretending to be the sole survivor in the desert, here. Tent camps are put up in season by tour operators but Rajasthan Tourism Development Corpn. (RTDC) has tiny permanent stone cottages with basic amenities in place. The cook and waiters come from Jaisalmer city when there are overnight guests, and the food, a delicious, traditional, Rajasthani thali, is freshly cooked right outside your cottage.\
RTDC's Sam Dhani Complex - Jaisalmer
CAUTION: You need to be careful how much you agree to pay for your camel rides. Rates are negotiable and taking individual camels can be expensive. Two people can share a camel. Also extra charges to go further into the dunes are not recommended as one does not go very much further.
The Gallis and Havelis of Bikaner
Not too far from the action-packed tourist centers of Rajasthan, like Udaipur and Jaipur, lies the beautiful city of Bikaner. Founded in 1488 by Rao Bikaji, full of intricately carved Haveli’s, the narrow, winding lanes bring back the era when Rajasthan’s Sethji’s or traders were as rich and influential as the Rajas. We arrived in this mysterious city after sunset and it was difficult to locate Bhanwar Niwas, the hotel which we had booked over the Internet. As a fellow traveler I must warn you that almost every hotel in Rajasthan has a – Haveli, or a – palace or a – Niwas attached to their name although most of them have nothing to do with any regal heritage.
What we found however was exquisite. Bhanwar Niwas belonging to the Rampuria family is the most magnificent of the famed mercantile havelis. Commissioned by the late Seth Bhanwarlalji Rampuria in 1927, the architecture of the haveli and its interiors is a fascinating blend of Indian and European styles and a tribute to the skill and meticulous craftsmanship of the artists and craftsmen of Bikaner. Each room is different from the other and has hand painted ceilings and walls, some actually painted by the present owner himself!
The most imposing monument in the city is the Junagarh fort, built in red sandstone in the 15th century by Raja Rai Singh, and has remained unconquered till date. It consists of 37 palaces; pavilions and temples built by different Kings and stands protected by massive ramparts and round towers. The Prachina museum within the fort, displays the treasures of the Royal family. Bikaner like most of Rajasthan is full of fascinating palaces, and several of these, like Lakshmi Niwas Palace and Lalgarh Palace, both built by Maharaja Ganga Singhji, have been converted into heritage hotels. Near the havelis, don’t miss the lovely Jain temple built in a combination of red sandstone and white marble.
Another place you just can’t miss is the Deshnok temple. This unique rat temple is dedicated to goddess Karni Mata, and is home to a thousand rats, believed to be the incarnation of bards. It requires a degree of determination to get past this one!
How to get there –
Sam is a 42 km drive from Jaisalmer.
Recommended accommodation – RTDC’s Sam Dhani Complex, or various private luxury tent camps.
Bikaner – you can fly from Mumbai to either Jodhpur or Jaipur and from there are regular train and bus services to Bikaner. Jaisalmer to Bikaner is 330kms.
Recommended accommodation – Bhanwar Niwas Haveli, Lalgarh Palace Hotel and Laxmi Niwas Palace Hotel